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Video tip: How to choose fresh fish -- plus, here’s a recipe

Los Angeles Times Test Kitchen director Noelle Carter gives tips on how to pick fresh fish.

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Do you like to cook fish but have no idea what to look for when you buy it at the market?

If you don’t cook fish that often, the thought of hitting a fish market (or even cruising your local seafood aisle) when shopping for a recipe can be a bit intimidating. What do you look for? How do you know the fish is fresh? And what should you avoid?

Here are some tips for choosing fresh fish the next time you go shopping:

--Check the smell first. Good fish (and, by extension, a fish market) will smell clean and fresh, perhaps a little briny, like the ocean. You should never encounter a “fishy” smell -- an off- or fishy odor is the first sign the fish isn’t fresh.

--If buying whole fish, check the eyes. The eyes should be bright, shiny and full; cloudy (or milky) sunken eyes are dead giveaways the fish has been sitting around too long.

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--Take a look at the skin and scales: the fresher the fish, the brighter and more metallic the skin. The skin should not be dull, even in patches.

--Touch the fish. The fish should be nice and firm, springing back from your touch (it should not be soft or squishy).

--Make sure the gills are clean and a bright red. As a fish ages, its gills will dull and start to turn brown (slimy gills are a sure sign the fish is starting to go bad).

--When buying steaks or fillets, check to make sure the flesh is bright and firm, not dull and soft. Check the structure (or grain) of the flesh, to make sure it’s smooth and intact, not broken or flaky. And be sure the flesh feels -- and smells -- clean; the flesh may be moist, but any moisture should be clear (not cloudy) and the flesh should never feel slimy.

Cooking is fun -- at least it should be! No matter how long you’ve been in the kitchen, there is always something new to learn, whether it’s a simple twist on an old technique, or a handy tip to save time and energy. In this series of short videos, I demonstrate a variety of kitchen tips, ranging from how to hold a chef’s knife for maximum control to using a spoon to peel fresh ginger. If you have any gadgets, kitchen tips or questions you’d like me to explore, leave a comment or shoot me an email at noelle.carter@latimes.

WHITE WINE-STEAMED SEA BASS WITH HORSERADISH CREME

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Note: David LeFevre serves this with roasted beets and sauteed baby spinach.

HORSERADISH CREME

1/4 peeled, grated horseradish
1/4 cup creme fraiche, whipped in a small bowl using a whisk
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons chopped chives
1/8 teaspoon salt
Pinch pepper

In a small, bowl, combine the horseradish, creme fraiche, lemon juice, chives, salt and pepper. Chill. (Makes one-third cup.)

FISH AND ASSEMBLY

1 cup white wine
1 cup fish stock
3 sprigs thyme
2 bay leaves
Zest of 2 lemons
2 (6-ounce) portions sea bass, skin off
1/4 teaspoon salt
Pinch pepper
Horseradish creme

1. Combine the wine, stock, thyme, bay leaves and zest in a steamer. Bring the temperature to 150 degrees.

2. Place the sea bass in the steamer and steam for about 35 minutes or until fish tests done. If you see the albumin forming bubbles on the outside of the fish, the liquid is too hot.

3. Season with the salt and pepper. Serve with horseradish creme.

Each serving: 240 calories; 34 grams protein; 3 grams carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 10 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 87 mg. cholesterol; 282 mg. sodium.

Love cooking as much as I do? Follow me @noellecarter

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